Put your tweezers down. Thin brows are out, natural and bold brows are in. Thin brows flatter no one, I am so relieved that natural slightly manicured brows are back. Don’t worry, you don’t have to draw two big caterpillars on your face to look like Cara Delevingne but I do think it is important to learn how to groom your brows to flatter your bone structure. Unfortunately too many people over pluck or forget about their brows altogether. If that’s you then read on to learn how to subtly pluck and fill in your brows to compliment your features.
Now lets talk brow shaping
Look at the diagram below to work out where your brows should start and finish and where your arch should be. It is easy to follow just use a pencil to work out your measurements. This image is from www.beautylish.com and was made by Anastacia Soare, brow specialist to the stars in Hollywood.
If your brows are too close together you will look like you are frowning and angry. If your brows are too far apart you will make yourself looked dazed and make your nose look bigger. If your brows are too short you will make your eyes look smaller, too long and you can make your eyes look droopy.
Pro Tip – fill in your brows before you pluck to give yourself a guide of the shape you want to end with.
Most people need to pluck under the brow to emphasise the arch but be careful not to take too much away. I know the example below is extreme but Gwen really does illustrate the importance of brow shaping and that when it comes to brows less is most definitely not more.
If you have a short or round face you should shape your brows to have a flattering arch to lengthen the face. The opposite applies to long faces, you should minimise the arch and lengthen the brow to widen the face.
If you over plucked in the 90’s try Talika’s Liposil brow gel to get them to grow back. Yes it really works but only if there is a root there. So if you never had brows it won’t work but if you over plucked and they stopped growing you should see results. I have suggested this product to a few clients and they all swear it has worked so for $50 it is a great investment (and no I don’t make commission or anything from the brand, I just like the product). Just be sure to use it morning and night for a month to see results.
If you are going to get yours brows shaped go somewhere with a great reputation, don’t just walk into any old salon because chances are they will wax away most of your brows! Nathan at Parlour B is the best in Sydney according to Vogue and those in the industry. You will need to book a month in advanced to secure your spot but it is worth the wait. I am personally a fan of plucking and threading rather than waxing. Remember if you dye your hair you should tint your brow to match.
Enhancing your brow shape with makeup.
Everyone has gaps in there brow so it is important to fill the brows in. If you are happy with their natural shape and just want to enhance them use a brow shadow to do so. When selecting a colour go one shade lighter than the desired outcome to keep the result natural, colours often look darker when they are on.
Benefit, DuWop and Too Faced all make great brow kits to help you fill in your brows.
If you need to change the shape of your brow and add more to sparse brows then you will need to use a pencil. Make sure you draw lots of little strokes to mimic the soft hairs rather than drawing an unrealistic big, hard line. Once you have drawn in the brows comb them diagonally upwards and outwards as this is more flattering and will also comb excess product.
Brow Pencils that I love and use:
For light blonde brows I like Bobby Brown pencil in Wheat
For everyone else I am obsessed with Hourglass brow pencils, they have three different shades that suit almost everyone, they glide on perfectly and stay on all day long. Clinique also make a great range of brows pencils.
Here is a pic of me with one brow filled in and the other not. You can really see that by gently filling in the brows I have subtly enhanced the arch and filled in all of the gaps.
Lots of people have brows that are too short for their eye shape. Last night I plucked my sisters brows to give her more of an arch and then used blondie shadow by Nars to fill them in. By accentuating the arch and elongating her brow we have really opened her eyes right up.
So have fun shaping your brows, I guarantee you’ll love the result. Brows really do frame the face and make such a difference when done correctly.
Don’t forget that am happy to pluck and shape your brows for you when you get your makeup done by me as makeup just won’t look good until the brows are shaped correctly.
Now remember if you enjoy my blog and learnt a thing or two please like it and share it with your friends.