How to Contour and Highlight to Enhance your Bone Structure in a Easy and Natural Way
Today I will be using products suitable for a paler complexion, but it’s easy to find powders for all skin types, if you need any questions just send me a message
Today I am using:
For my paler skin I am using Benefit Hoola hoola light as a bronzer/contour, and I am applying it with the Rae Morris Kabuki brush. I purposely used this soft, rounded brush and not a firm, angular brush because this brush blends the product as it goes on whereas those angular brushes create a strong, stripy look.
Start with your Cheeks
Starting with your bronzer, load the product on the brush, make sure you tap the brush so there isn’t too much product on the brush as you can always apply more if needed but too much can be hard to blend out.
Start from where the top of your ear connects with your face, then in a diagonal motion following your cheek bones sweep the brush backwards and forwards back up to your ear and along just under your cheekbones. You need to sweep the brush only about an inch and half from your ear to the middle of your cheek, then draw back up to your ear, repeat this a couple of times. Going lower towards your mouth will make your face look saggy and your cheekbones lower instead of higher. So, by keeping the contour high you will help enhance your cheekbones and lift your whole face up.
PRO TIP: A contour product is more of a grey base colour to mimic shadow whereas a bronzer tends to give a warmer sun kissed appearance. For that reason I find bronzer is more suited to everyday use as it is a two in one product, it contours and also warms up your complexion.
When you are doing your own makeup remember to always look straight ahead so you can ensure you are getting a balanced result, also remember to do both sides one after each other.
Then to reduce the stripyness, push up with the brush (see video). The reason we blend upwards is because we want to blend the line away but stop it from pulling the face down.
Once we add the blusher to this later, it will help blend it even further.
You may also like to contour your forehead for more warmth and to make your forehead appear smaller. Starting just off centre of the top of your forehead, lightly trace your hairline back and forwards down to your ear. Make sure you go both directions to create an even surface.
Remember this is meant to look natural, if you are starting to get a stripy look, you may have used too much product on your brush.
After applying the bronzer to your forehead, add a little to your jawline and on your neck to sculpt your jawline and ensure your neck isn’t looking pale as it doesn’t tan like the decolletage does. (see video for details)
Essentially when putting on your contour/bronzer we are drawing a number 3 shape from the forehead along the check, back and then under the jaw. However, do not apply like a three, it is important to have a fresh dip for each section of your face.
Now for your Highlighting
This is used to help highlight the cheekbones, I prefer to use Two Faced Candlelight Glow because it is better for my lighter complexion and is not to grainy like some highlighters can be.
PRO TIP: Highlighter can only be seen in the light, so don’t worry if you can’t see it. Just step under some brighter light and see what it looks like before applying more.
Using the same brush, or a slightly smaller one, find the top of your Cheek bone, follow the bone from the centre of your cheek, back towards your ear then carefully curve around the bone structure of your eye. Don’t go too close to the eye, this avoids highlighting our crows feet.
Some people like to highlight the nose, however instead I like to highlight my cupids bow and in the very corner of my eyes close to my nose.
Starting with the cupids bow, using the same product and a little smudger brush, just apply little amounts around the top of your lips. Then in the corner of your eyes, just follow the little “V” to help freshen your eyes up a little bit. You may also like to add a little bit under your brow.
Now bring it all together with the Blush
Using the same round kabuki brush from earlier, apply a powder blush, I used Charlotte Tilbury Ecstasy Cheek to Chic, this has a soft pinkie peach colour, but you can choose your favourite blush. Get a small amount of product on the brush and draw the brush from the apples of your cheek and up on your cheek bones. This step not only makes me feel more awake but importantly for it sits between the highlight and the contour/bronzer, which helps to blend it all together, so you won’t look stripy.
PRO TIP: Always draw everything up so that you are bringing your face up to fight gravity, not enhance it.
Once you have done this, just gently pat your face with your fingers to help bring it together (see video).
If you are looking for more detailed advice on makeup training I offer a range of personalised makeup tutorials where we can find the right products for you and I can teach you to enhance your natural beauty. Learn more about my tutorials here